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A Pilgrimage to the Solar Electric Generating Stations

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What surprised me most about the hundreds of acres of mirrors of the Solar Electric Generating Stations is how well they fit into the Mojave Desert. I expected the 250 acres of parabolic troughs to seem huge; they would be in the middle of San Francisco. But desert distance is different and the size of the plants at Kramer’s Junction, which produce about 150 megawatts, isn’t really all that impressive. I expected something grander and crazier from the satellite photo.

And in most of the coverage I’ve read about solar fields, writers emphasize the HUGENESS of plants that Luz built in the 1980s. “The rays captured on the huge, rain-gutter-shaped mirrors fire sleek tubes of synthetic oil, which in turn generate enough turbine-driving steam to power more than 100,000 homes,” went Paul Pringle’s SEGS account for the Dallas Morning News in 1989. I’m not going to say they were disappointing in person, but there was little dissonance between the plants and their surroundings.

Maybe it’s because just down the road, one of the world’s largest boron mines has made a hole in the Earth that’s bigger than the mirror field and 500 feet deep.

mineandSEGS

Maybe it’s because on the way to Kramer Junction you drive past the giant logistics companies near Victorville with their million-square-foot warehouses connected to the entire world by plane and train, the road-facing flanks of the buildings perforated with hundreds of semi bays for trucking plastic toys and lawn furniture the last mile.

Maybe it’s because on the drive back to the coast, you pass through the haze-filled San Joaquin Valley, in which a few mechanically enhanced hired hands create food on a truly impressive scale, miles and miles and miles of fields just to feed a tiny slice of our hunger for almonds. The whole enterprise is tawdry and sublime at the same time.

Out there, where lots of things are happening at the scale of the global economy, it’s just not that weird to have a 250 acres of mirrors making steam to turn a turbine. Or at least not much weirder than the Zappo’s warehouse run by quasi-autonomous robots near Vegas. Kramer Junction feels like a lot of random truck stops. You can get a Subway turkey sandwich or a burger and visit an antique shop with a fine collection of vintage coffee grinders. You can watch a train thunder by and get stuck waiting on a red light. Then, you can drive half a mile to the most successful solar project of the 20th century. If this is the future, it sure seems like everything else. And perhaps that’s solar thermal’s greatest advantage.

The mirror fields, in comparison to a solar panel on a home, are big. But that’s not the world in which energy production exists. Going out to places like Crockett, California, where rail meets interstate meets ocean or Victorville, where rail meets highway meets air field, I’ve started to see the separate country that undergirds San Francisco and Gainesville and Boston.

victorville

That country is big, mechanical, and fast. It cannot be located in a dense place: Land needs to be cheap and land regulations loose. But density requires these other desolate places to exist. If you live in a major city, you are excluded from this world. In fact, it’s been designed so that you don’t see it, won’t see it, except perhaps fleetingly from the highway or as you fly past and snap a photo. And there’s nothing wrong with all that, necessarily.

The problem is that people who rarely spend time out near the correctional facilities of the desert, still bring their ideas from Main Street about “a lot” or “too much” into this other world. SEGS might be huge in the burbs, but in the geography of infrastructure, where everything is huge, it makes sense. In the Mojave, a million square meters of mirrors may be defined as small and beautiful.

I wish there was a way to visualize the infrastructure world, where its nodes are and how it connects to China and Europe and the Gulf Coast. Perhaps you could calculate the dollar value of goods moving through a place per capita. Then, suddenly, you’d see the lifestyle-support systems of the country fluoresce. The outskirts of Mobile, Alabama. Kansas City. Riverside, California. Chambersburg, Pennsylvania. Orangeburg, South Carolina. A whole different set of cities would glow.

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12 comments for “A Pilgrimage to the Solar Electric Generating Stations”

  1. Love this post, Alexis.

    I’m guessing you’re already familiar with Infranet Lab — Mason White and company — who are really into exactly this “geography of infrastructure”, and ways to visualize it (and operate architecturally within it).

    Maybe less likely is that you’re familiar with Pierre Belanger, a landscape architect (and — this is one of my favorite lines from an academic resume ever — “nationally certified in Canada as a Surface Miner, skilled in precision earthmoving and heavy equipment operations”) who was a colleague of some of the Infranet Lab folks at U. of Toronto until recently being lured away by Harvard. There’s not a lot of Pierre’s work on the internet (as far as I know), but his is a name worth keeping an eye out for. If you see it attached to something, it’ll be worth reading. His bits in the Alphabet City books “Food” and “Trash”, for instance, are great pieces of research tracking the relationships between infrastructural processes and infrastructural landscapes.

    Or maybe you already know Belanger, too, and I’m boring you… I’ll stop now.

    Posted by Rob | January 12, 2010, 8:54 am
  2. Err, “you already know…”

    Posted by Rob | January 12, 2010, 8:55 am
  3. [...] after the winter break; another bit of that reading that I’d particularly recommend is Alexis Madrigal’s post on visiting the SEGS, or Solar Electric Generating Stations, located in Kramer Junction, [...]

    Posted by the scale of infrastructural landscapes - mammoth // building nothing out of something | January 12, 2010, 11:13 am
  4. I love this idea for a map.
    But would be surprised if some student hasn’t already for a studio.

    [i]I wish there was a way to visualize the infrastructure world, where its nodes are and how it connects to China and Europe and the Gulf Coast.[/i]

    Although probably just a piece of it. It could probably be put together like jigsaw pieces.

    Posted by namhenderson | January 12, 2010, 3:47 pm
  5. great post- i love the tone and the topic. the writing was just wonderful for me- big, mechanical, and fast.

    There was another guy, a precursor to Belanger- Gary Strang. He wrote some interesting stuff in the mid 90’s on landscape and infrastructure including- wait for it- Infrastructure as Landscape (1996, Landscape Journal I believe), a harbinger of Belanger (who is super interesting). He’s doing some good things in California, it seems.

    Posted by faslanyc | January 12, 2010, 6:03 pm
  6. not that ‘harbinger’ and ‘precursor’ aren’t redundant, or that that isn’t a double negative. another disjointed comment… but good post.

    Posted by faslanyc | January 12, 2010, 6:05 pm
  7. [...] mammoth, Rob Holmes takes a peek at the massive scale of some new solar infrastructure, linking to this post on the sprawling SEGS facility in California – conveniently located next to the world’s [...]

    Posted by Links – bad day for the Midwest – City Block | January 12, 2010, 7:14 pm
  8. Thanks Rob and faslanyc! Those are great suggestions for me to explore this stuff. I do indeed know Infranetlab. They were one of my early inspirations, actually, as I got going writing the book. I’m afraid that the text of the book itself is perhaps more analytical and less descriptive, so I’m trying to fill in some of those gaps with these kinds of posts here.

    In looking at energy, it seems that very little writing about it puts people close to the action. Perhaps it’s the tendency to grandiosity (“Energy is the key to all life processes” “Energy is the key to the rise of modern man” etc etc) that keeps people from just looking at a power plant or a transmission line and asking, “So, what is this?” or “How did this get here?” or “How does this fit in with the rest of this county?”

    Posted by Alexis Madrigal | January 13, 2010, 4:51 pm
  9. I’ve heard Belanger is intense: I guess when he was a grad student at the gsd he lived in his van for a year, showered in the basement, kept his van parked in the underground service corridor, and spent the vast majority of his time in studio.

    Posted by Adam | January 14, 2010, 10:10 am
  10. Don’t color me impressed. I’ve done all those things, too, but it was just because I was addicted to methamphetamine! (Just kidding. But that would be a plausible explanation, no?)

    Honestly, the GSD is weird enough to make anyone go crazy, it would seem.

    Posted by Alexis Madrigal | January 14, 2010, 10:20 am
  11. I knew lots of guys like that at community college.

    Posted by faslanyc | January 14, 2010, 1:51 pm
  12. [...] more from the original source: Inventing Green « A Pilgrimage to the Solar Electric Generating … Share and [...]

    Posted by Inventing Green « A Pilgrimage to the Solar Electric Generating … | Future of Solar Panels | January 18, 2010, 9:30 pm

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